Driving up the gravel road to the Forest of Hope Guesthouse, you see a glimpse of life as a local living on the outskirts of this special forest, and also the incredible projects supported locally. You will see a school, the Women for Bees project and the local weavery. (These are all open to visits as an activity during your stay at Gishwati). You also have a beautiful view over Lake Kivu below.

Once you arrive at the Guesthouse, you are warmly welcomed by the Forest of Hope team. You are immediately struck by the awe-inspiring view of the rainforest, and two majestic volcanoes of the Virungas as a backdrop. Both Mt Karisimbi and Mt Mikeno are visible on the horizon on a clear day, reminding you where you are in the world. This is the only guesthouse that caters to visitors, meaning you have exclusive access to this park from here.

There are 2 en-suite rooms with 2 twin beds. For those that prefer camping, there is a beautiful wooden deck (with a roof) tucked away on the slope. The camp spot is self-catering, so make sure to bring your own camping equipment and food. There is a shared bathroom facility available, basic but always spotlessly clean.

Every evening a big bonfire is lit, inviting you to come and join. With a cold beer, or warm cup of tea, we share stories. It is a great opportunity also to talk with Forest of Hope staff, who has been the heartbeat of Forest of Hope for the last 10 years. The stories, sense of humor and incredible knowledge really adds to the evening. This is such a great interpretive experience as you are encouraged to share your own stories, and ask questions that are of special interest to you.

With the logs crackling away under the stars, one can almost lose track of time. This is until the guardian of all guests, informs you that the chef is ready when you are. You are then treated to a three course meal. A chef specialty here is certainly the curry. As the evenings tend to be on the cooler side the fresh homemade chapatis accompanied by the warm rich flavors of the curry is a welcomed meal. Due to the exclusivity of Forest of Hope, the kitchen is also very capable of catering to any dietary requirements.

After dinner, you can join the guiding staff as they explain the next day ahead. The Guide will show you maps of trails, what to expect and the possible species one may encounter. This changes daily, as the trackers are always reporting back on what is happening in the forest. Gishwati is proud to be home to a group of Eastern Chimpanzees as well as Golden Monkeys and Mountain Monkeys.

Being a wilderness area, of course none of these sightings are ever guaranteed. Together with the Guide, you will come up with a plan for the morning which will cater to your specific interests. This includes distance, time and destination of your hike. Not only are there primate species which may be encountered but there are beautiful vistas, waterfalls and an overall immersive park experience.

There are many smaller things of interest such as butterflies, reptiles, fungi and especially birds. Gishwati has an incredible diversity of birds, many of which are Albertine Rift Endemics. Ones encountered more regularly may range from Rwenzori Batis, Regal Sunbirds or even Dusky Crimsonwings. After setting a time for the morning, you can continue to enjoy the bonfire to the night sounds of the forest.

In the morning there is always freshly brewed coffee, tea and fruit juice. A buffet table filled with delicious breakfast snacks to choose from before your adventure. Walking sticks and water bottles are available for use, and packed lunches are always prepared. With great excitement you set off, descending into the rainforest. With the sounds of the trickling rivers and morning birdsong, you enter the world of Gishwati Mukura.

No walk in the forest is ever the same, so what you will see out there is yet to be determined. The only trend I have seen as predictable at the end of a walk is a sweaty face and a very big smile. Visitors leave with a rejuvenation one can only achieve with spending time in a wild area. Many return, as visitors but also as friends.

Lucy Stofberg